Đánh giá chanel pre fall 2023 năm 2024

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The camellias are out in Paris—ever the first optimistic sign of spring, despite this week’s frigid weather. Perhaps that’s one reason that Coco Chanel cultivated them as one of the signifiers of her house. She first pinned one of the blooms on a dress in 1923. Was a consciousness of centenary of the Chanel camellia in the back of Virginie Viard’s mind when she picked it as the center-piece of her fall ready-to-wear show?

Viard had organized a giant symbolic white camellia as a set, and had a real one placed on every guest’s seat, but she wasn’t pressing the anniversary angle. “The camellia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the house,” she said in her press release. “I find it reassuring and familiar, I like its softness and its strength.”

A taste for propagating a contemporary realness around Chanel’s enviable Frenchness is more Viard’s thing. Like so many others this season, she opened with variations on black, white and gray. White camellias ran up a black trellis on a long, slim, tweed coat; they clustered as a corsage on slick black patent Mod-ish suits and popped up like polka dots all over cardigan jackets. From the minutest of embroideries to the button-shapes to the big, fuzzy angora pattern on a sweater, and swinging on multiple chain-bags, the flowers were absolutely everywhere.

The formalities of the Chanel canon are constantly open to reinterpretation, as Karl Lagerfeld supremely taught. While staying within the guardrails of Chanel’s femininity and decorativeness, his former first assistant and successor has added her own dash of quirkiness to the mix. Some of the suits came paired with tweed bermudas, bloomers or leather shorts, teamed up with white floral lace tights and knee boots.

Viard didn’t make a big play for evening—the finale was of camellia-print silk dresses, layered over sweaters and longjohns. This was more (perhaps like Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection for Vuitton) a depiction of what Parisian style might mean as worn by women on the street. It was good to see Viard extending her sense of reality to including mid-size models in that. As distinctive as Chanel is with its camellias, it’s a house that offers something for all women to buy into.

As announced back in July, Chanel has flocked to the city of Manchester in the North of England to stage its annual Métiers d’Art collection. Previous locations for the celebration of the iconic French fashion house’s savoir-faire collection have included Moscow, Dallas, Rome, and Hamburg while last year’s showcase spectacular was held in Dakar. Following a show staged in Edinburgh back in 2012, Chanel has ventured back onto UK soil for 2023, welcoming the fashion pack into the Northern Quarter of Manchester. Staged on a cold and rainy December night, models paraded Virginie Viard’s latest creations up and down pub-lined Thomas Street, rocking an array of designs which paid homage to the Northern English city – from its mercantile history in textile manufacturing to its rich musical legacy.

Scroll further to read the opinions of theFashionSpot’s unfiltered forum members, regarding Virginie Viard’s latest outing as Chanel creative director:

“There are actually some cute pieces here and there.” [couturefan]

“This collection is pretty cohesive as far as silhouettes and material usage go. Usually Viard’s collections are a mish-mash of random crap. Usually a runway with looks of just only what could be salvaged. Viard finally put out a whole collection of non-ugly silhouettes. Chanel – of all brands – should never show a bad silhouette.” [Nimsay]

“It’s fine. I can see why longtime stans would hate post-Lagerfeld Chanel, but this is very much still Chanel.” [GoldenPetals]

“Can you image what Karl would have done if he were to present in Manchester? Chanel + football tackiness = yummy! Instead, we get this drab, vintage Burberry with Chanel tweed. Such a missed opportunity from Viard, again.” [RaisinBoy]

“It’s not my cup of tea but this is a good collection by Virginie’s standards. I just feel like we are missing the spirit of Métiers d’Art, which was really a bridge between couture and RTW.” [Lola701]

“Having all the looks paired with flat shoes is one of the vilest things I have ever seen in fashion. Disgusting. The silhouettes are definitely better but the prints and some colors choices are as always a disgrace.” [WAVES]

“To send the same cookie-cutter tweed suits they could very well have stayed in Paris. The only great Manchester thing here is Karen Elson walking for Chanel again.” [jeanclaude]

See all the looks from the Chanel Pre-Fall 2024 collection and join the conversation for yourself, here.